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Camden Town, London

Guided Tour

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As a first time London visitor, you might carry a Michelin guide with you. Flipping over to the Camden and Islington section, you find that the book only spends two pages mumbling mostly about geography and history, along with a tiny paragraph commenting on the diverse food stalls. It does not even mention Camden’s contemporary punk heritage. So, what makes Camden Town stand out of all other attractions in London? Food stalls? Punk heritage? No, sadly, the old days have long gone. That distinctive punk cultural has transformed into a tacky selling point. Along the Camden High Street, you can detect some guys with spiky hair. Unfortunately, they holds signs and basically tries to sell you stuff, be it tattoo or piercing. However, I am not trying to convince you to cross out Camden Town from your list. By contrast, I want to convince to you put a big star for Camden Town on your list. I am about to show you a route that will make you believe the existence of the rabbit hole and Wonderland. That kingdom does not lust for your attention. It owns itself, and it owns whoever is curious and adventurous enough. Now, please follow my guidance, and let curiosity overtake you. 

 

Exiting from Camden Town tube station, the first thing that may come into your view is a massive shop promotion board. Turn right at the exit, and then walk along Camden High Street for about five minutes. The street is choked with not only tourists, but also endless tacky souvenir shops that sell all things London and bootleg brand-name headphones. Exciting as the shops may appear, with their attention grabbing 3D billboards (Dr. Marten’s for instance), their main purpose is to attract as many customers as possible. You can also hear merchants shouting vigorously to the air. You might think, “Another touristy attraction.” Please do not give up on Camden Town yet. You are very close to the hidden rabbit hole. Keep going through the street, and then turn left at the traffic light right under the cargo bridge. Take the narrow passageway on the right, and you will find dozens of exotic food stalls impatiently waiting. Feel free to savor the Indian curry stalls. Though the sanitation of the food may be questionable, it’s pretty tasty considering the decent pricing. Keep walking about 2 minutes, you will start to notice some nuances in your surrounding. At the end of the passageway, tilt up your head and you will see massive cast-iron horses running towards you. Then, turn right. The number of tacky souvenir shops has started to dwindle, replaced by some gothic clothing and leather shops. Now, turn left again, then you will see a “Toilet” sign on the cast-iron entrance above you. You might think, “Oh, finally, it’s time for the loo!” The sign will lead you to a door. Push open that door, and another one. A sketchy staircase meets your eyes. A sudden chill might run through your body instantly. Welcome to the entrance to the rabbit hole. The dim industrial light drones mindlessly above you. The cement wall battered by random graffiti seems to be engulfing you. Step forward a little and take a peak down. You might freeze at the sight of the depth. But, who says Alice has a pleasant slide down to the rabbit hole? Her slide down through the hole is definitely quite frightening and unpleasant at first. Plus, if you are alone, I can assure you that most likely you won’t be assaulted by any living creature other than yourself. If something did happen, just apply any martial arts move you have seen in Kung Fu Panda or The Matrix, and you should be totally fine. Now, please boost up your curiosity and courage level, and then make your way down the staircase at whatever pace you prefer. 

 

If you see a door at the end, you can congratulate yourself that you just make it through the staircase. Now, go ahead and push open that door, colors on the wall will immediately rush into your view. The painting on the wall surrounding the hallway is not just random graffiti; rather, it is actually psychedelic art, which employs bright colors, cartoons, and a full spectrum of colors to create highly distorted and surreal visuals. This particular form of art is derived from the experience induced by drugs, such as LSD, which was widely used in the 60s among the counterculture. Walking this hallway, you are shoved into a state of alternate consciousness, not unlike the initial disorientation that Alice experiences when making her way through Wonderland. The vividness of the painting on the wall seems to come to life. You can see a gigantic unicorn head and a teenage girl, who sits casually with one hand holding her heart and the other reaching out to the guy on her left. All the images are so surreal and vivid that you wonder if you are dreaming. Float your eyes along the wall, and then let them rest on the very end of this hall: another door. Here’s the final problem, this is not just another door; this is the final door that you will have to enter during my tour. Are you going to have a satisfactory final leap? Or, are you going to land unpleasantly flat on the ground? Now, please push open that final door, then you shall find out. 

 

After that final door, turn right. You can see rows after rows of worn-out wooden bookshelves, stretched from the ground to the ceiling. Take a closer look at those books, and then you shall see them rest lazily on the bookshelves. Unlike books in other chain bookshops, these books lie there in the least desirable way possible. They are nomads who are not eager to be owned. They own themselves, and they own those who are interested in them. Feel free to wander through this narrow hallway lined with old books. The collection here is quite diverse. For instance, you might randomly pick out one book titled Fair Ladies and Gray Horses, which sounds somewhat whimsical. What’s even more stunning is that the book was published in 1907 and cost less than five pounds. That was a 106 year-old book lying on your hands. Now, you wonder, “Wouldn’t my life be complete if I could find a chic and hip café and start my book?” Bibidibabidiboo! Let’s make your wish come true. 

 

Follow your ear to the clink clink sound of the cups and the grinding coffee beans. Turn right at the end of the narrow hallway, you will find yourself surrounded by Victorian horse stables. You just stepped into the legendary hidden gem in Camden: Basement Tearooms. The shop consists of two stables----one on your left, and the other on your right. This particular location is so tucked away from the hyper touristy vibe above that it requires you to have genuine curiosity in order for you to find out. Just think about how many floors you have ventured down. This exact location has actually turned out to be a distinctive advantage. According to Harry Ho, the owner, the rent upstairs is three times more expensive than the one here. Therefore, this location is financially friendly for young talent, like Harry, to flourish. Especially, the deco of the tearooms is worth noting. On your left are the general seating area and a tiny vintage boutique. Take a look around the tearooms. In the middle passage way sits two knee-tall vintage metal cabinets with wheels. On top of each cabinet sits some jars with pastry, such as scones, chocolate chips cookies, and more. Pieces of handpicked vintage furniture occupy the seating area on the left. Don’t miss out the red double sofa at the far right of the seating area, which is the most coveted spot where you can sink in with your just-purchased Fair Ladies and Gray Horses and a cup of freshly prepared chai tea latte. Aside from the sofa, the free-spirited lamps scattered around the tearooms are happy to keep you company. The creamy, yellowish light flowing out from the lamps melts with the surrounding picture frames, the vintage furniture, and the original wooden construction of the stables. Another interesting thing that adds to the Alice-in-Wonderland experience is that, due to the location, the mobile reception is none. It is a place where you can escape from the world of technological bombardment. Moreover, it is a place that half-forces or helps you to engage in human interaction, which is very essential to your wellbeing. Now, take a deep breath, and then exhale. Shoo away all your worries. Shoo away your final report to your boss. Please enjoy yourself in this unexpected wonderland. 

 

Now, my tour down the rabbit hole and eventually, through the wonderland, has come to and end. However, the story is to be continued by you. Please share your experience with your friends and family, and most of all, keep a piece of this place in your heart. Finally, remember, there must be many other rabbit holes and wonderlands out there, and the key to them is simply a curious mind. Let your curiosity lead you when visiting different places!

 

 

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